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Tuesday, February 28, 2006

OK, so I've been really lazy! SP to Rio

I know I promised more and underdelivered, but that's what happens when your having the time of your life. But more about life in Rio & Carnaval later, this is about what we got up to on our way to this out of control city.

So as mentioned we caught up with Felipe, who I had met in Patagonia, and his girlfriend our last night in Sao Paulo and they took us out to a Samba School's rehearsal for the Samba Parade. It was great to see the unfinished product and the craziness that goes on at these things. Thousands of people crammed into a shed, live music, dancing & lots of booze. We headed out to a different part of town afterwards to checkout the nightlife.


The following day we headed to the bus station to find out that allof the buses to Paraty (our intended next stop) were booked out until late afternoon but we could risk it by going through a small coastal town named Ubatuba and trying to connect through. We grabbed our tickets and thought about something Felipe had told us the evening prior, he had written down the name of a small surfing village and a guy named Mario's details who rented cheap rooms with a view and it all happened to be just outside Ubatuba. We had originally thought of backtracking a little from Paraty to check this place out, but now that the opportunity had presented itself we had to take it up.

After about my 12th attempt to get Mario on the phone (portuguese was still not so great and telephone system could not be more complicated) I thought that he agreed to pick us up from the bus station in Ubatuba - perfect; that's if I understood correctly. But sure enough he was there in his Boardies with the Combi van rearing to go, we jumped in and headed for Itamambuca Beach, a small village based in a cove on a beautiful beach. We were even more stoked when we saw the view from our room and the proximity from the beach, awesome!


After a night and day with Mario, it was time to keep moving north towards Paraty, a really old fishing village surrounded by some 90+ islands all with their own pristine beaches.


We spent our first day on an island tour to some of the better places for snorkeling and relaxing on the beaches and that night out enjoying some more Samba rehearsals throughout the streets of town. The following day we backtracked a little and headed to Trindade for the day where among some great beaches we also found this natural rock pool filled with abundant fish life and crystal clear water.


Fisherman Dudes

The following day we were off again to Ilha Grande - reported to have the best beaches of Brasil. It was a bus ferry combination through a small town before we got there, but we were finally able to find something that Lilla has been searching for since she got here; a big seafood BBQ. We dined and enjoyed wine on the beach to celebrate. The next day we were off on another island/beach tours on one of the infamous Brazilian Schooners where we meet 2 Swedish girls we met up with later that night for some drinks, the following day it was off to the 'Best Beach in Brasil' which really was spectacular and much less crowded than what we had come across so far.


I met a South African guy out body surfing and we decided to grab some boards and hit the waves, just to confirm that I am still as shit as I ever was at surfing, but it was great fun being out on the water again. Dinner and drinks with the Swedes again before heading off to Rio.........

I spent last night uploading some 600 photos so be sure to check them out with the Flickr link to the right.

Friday, February 24, 2006

Kodak Moment

So I´ve finally been able to log on and get some action going on the photo side of things, so check it out;

The Argentinian Rubbish Removal system, not uncommon in even the big cities like BA, it took me a while to find one of these suckers without his owner around. Features here with our Canadian buddy Cam

Some Jesuit ruins we checked out on our from Rosario to Iguazu Falls

Water repelling down some falls just out side of Iguazu Falls NP, I know it´s not big but trust me when I say it was slippery!

And of course, the marvelous falls themselves: Spectaculour!


Monday, February 13, 2006

Double bed camping paradise within bunk bed city

Our bus trip north was not too bad, definitely getting sick of the big overnighters though. We ended up in Posadas, a small town way north of Argentina where we decided to go check out some Jesuit ruins (some dudes that came over here from spain to represent Christianity, we think, we could be well off - if anyone does know, we would like to also) which were very beautiful but the weather was hot and we were tired so after a quick liquado it was time to continue our journey north.

We arrived at our hostel in Puerto de Iguazu (the Argentinian side of the falls) at about 4:30, more like a hostel than a resort, we just wanted to check in and hit the pool. Too bad they had lost our reservation, didn´t have a double room and although I had already paid for the room wanted me to pay again. After about an hour they finally found us a private room for 4 (2 bunk beds) with which we decided to take it upon oursleves to re-arrange the room and ripped the mattresses off the beds and camped out on the floor between the bunks, a good enough make do paradise, so it was to the pool for us.

The next day was VISA time, we got up early so we could hit the Brazilian consulate in town but we didn´t receive the quick turn qround we had been promised so we just hung out and killed the next 2 hours whilst we waited. Once we picked them up we headed back out the hostel with not enough time to check out the falls, we though we would take a half day trip into the jungle and indulge ourselves in such activities as water repelling, lots of fun!

Day 2 saw us hitting the falls on the Argentinian side, speed boating in there, getting saturated under the falls and having an awesome time, then it was walk time where we got right up close to the falls and above them as well where you could fully appreciate the natural wonder of their awesome power. After walking what felt like about 20km, we decided to head back to the hostel for a quick swim before a taxi ride accross the border and into Brazil, country number 4 for me and 3 for Lil.

Our new hostel was just as awesome as the last one, pool, bar, the works. Sunday after a much needed sleep in then we hit the Brazilian side of the falls which offered a much more panoramic view of the entire network. It was so hot though, we decided to jump in a raft and white water our way back down to the park entrance instead of the standard bus. The rapids were only grade 3 and only ran for half of the trip but we just wanted to get wet! When the rapids came to an end we jumped in the river and floated our way down, very relaxing.

A few bevvies with some Aussie guys we met in Argentina last night by the pool before packing once again in preparation for yet another overnighter on our way to the 3rd biggest city in the world, Sao Paulo where we have spent yesterday and today trying not to get ourselves lost within this monstrosity. An estimated 20 million people live within this metropolis with an estimated 30 million living within Greater SP. Yeah, it´s big!

We´re catching up with a mate that i met in Argentina who lives in this crazy place tonight for some dinner and drinks, he has a car so it will be great to cover a bit more ground in this crazy place before heading out of here tomorrow back to the coast to contimue eork on our tan!

I have tried to upload photos for this blog about 4 times now (hence the lack of entries and this memmoth mother) without much luck, so will leave it as for the time being and get back to you when Blogger get their arse into gear. Till then......

Thursday, February 09, 2006

I am an addict!

It's true, I must confess, I have recently become an addict of Argentina. I really cannot get enough of this place.

We have spent the last 3 days here in Rosario, the birthplace of the most printed face in the world, Che Guevara. It's a beautiful city situated on the river Parana, some 300+ km from Buenos Aires. The morning we arrived here (at 4 something) once we had showered up and finally got my blog uploaded, the guy that was working here explained to us that the area that we are staying in is very famous in Argentina because it is renowned for it's 'whore' houses. Now he was speaking English with a pretty thick accent so I wasn't exactly sure that he meant what we thought so we had to ask again, with which he explained that the name of our hostel, Pichincha, is the slang word for 'whore' house in Spanish and the hostel actually used to be one. What the hell have we just checked into......?

After breakfast we tried to put the thought of how man people had, well you know, in the private room that we would be checking into later by going for a stroll along the river and through town. The city is very cool & has some pretty specky buildings and monuments. After a few hours and the purchase of some much needed beard clippers (also handy for DIY haircuts), we headed back to the hostel to relax, check in and maybe get in a kip. We took it easy for the rest of the day, cooking up a storm for dinner before heading out to a blues show with 2 brazilian girls and a Canadian guy named Cam.

Yesterday Cam, Lil & I grabbed a boat out to this island across the river to this beach where we spent the day lounging in the sun, drinking Liquados (the origin of the smoothie) and getting burnt, well Cam & I anyway. We all headed out to dinner last night to this awesome Buffet joint around the corner from the hostel where for $6.50 Australian, you can feast on Argentinian Meat, Cooked as you wait Pasta, Seafood & Chinese as well as one of the biggest international selections of food I think I have ever seen, man did I feel fat this morning!

Straight to Fanny Spa today where Lilla & I splurged ourselves on a Fanny Pedicure (interesting) and Fanny Massage (Fanny is the name of the spa) which set us back about AU$35 all up. It was all to ensure we feel nice and relaxed before another fuck off overnight bus ride worth 13 hours on our way to Iguazu Falls, although the 140 degree reclinerable seats, free beer, wine & champaign with dinner and breakfast thrown in all for AU$40 a piece should also sort us out.

I think now you are probably starting to understand the cause of my addiction, I mean I have traveled and lived in cheap countries before, but the quality of what you get for your money here is just completely unbelievable, only 3 days left in Argi and then into Brazil. We're really going to miss it here, but looking forward to those beaches!

Monday, February 06, 2006

Don't you hate it when that happens!

It's 10 to 8 in the morning, been on an overnight bus ride from Uruguay to Rosario, Argentina (the 4th time crossing into these borders for me), rocked into the hostel at 5 in the morning, thought we could use the internet until breakfast is ready, spend an hour or so writing out an update for my blog, upload some photos and then the computer decides to turn nasty and has some sort of an attack on me and I've spent the last half an hour turning the bastard on and off to find that I've lost everything! It was funny as shit too, always the way. Oh well, here we go agan...........

Super Camas & Lost Papeles

Although Uruguayans are somewhat more culturally closely related to their Argi cousins across the river, they definitely follow in their other relatives from Chile's footsteps when it comes to the delicate know how of coffee. As pictured below, these were 2 TA coffees that Lil and I received in Montevideo on the morning of our beach mission (they even came complete with TA coke plastic lid, straw was extra). Funny as to look at, not so funny when you burning your wee fingers due to the serious lack of insulation offered from your friendly plastic coke cup.


We did end up making it to the beach on Thursday, nobody bothered to mention though that unless the weather is seriously shining there's not really a hell of alot of anything to do down there (Obvious I know). So we countinued our mission of finding a standard issue Movie Cinema with non-contrasting language barriers at your Shopping Center with great luck! We picked up some tickets to see ¨Memoirs of a Geisha¨ (great movie by the way) with enough spare time to pick up some lunch and essentials


After the movie we headed back down to the beach to check to find a full blown Argentina vs Uruguay Beach Soccer match takig place only 100m or so from the free rock concert we were there to see, so we went to scope out the goods.

There's actually a Beach Soccer tournament that happens each year within South America which is completely free, what an awesome idea. We were secretly barracking for Argentina, not displaying any public support of course (why wouldn't you when their team is obviously completely nutritioned on $5 steaks & wine) who in the end took the game home 1-0. We wandered over to a beach kiosk near the concert to enjoy the atmosphere and the 1L beers (TA & Drik-in) that the kiosk had on offer.

The next morning we were off to Punta del Este (the Gold Coast of Uruguay) where we spent 3 das in the sun, on the beach & staying healthy with lots of walks & some home cooked dinners (our first communal kitchen since Lilla has joined me). Punta was really quite a cool town, with a late nightlife (hell the DJ's don't even start their set until 2:30, just after everyone has fnished their dinner), great beaches and a relaxing atmosphere, unlike the GC.


Last night saw us boarding our Super Cama (bed) overnight bus back to Argentina.

Super comfortable, English movies to help us get to sleep, I was ready to settle down for the niht, until got to the border crossing and some crazy, angry lady who was collecting our pasports demanded to know where Lilla's & my papers were, the one's that we apparently got on our way into Uruguay. Not even remembering receiving them, she contimued to tell us that there would be a fine for not having the papers (probably another tourist scam). It took some smooth talkig, as the rest of the bus contimued to wait for us, to get us through with our wallets unharmed, but it was a great feeling to know that we were once again back in the land of the polite, cheap and super good steak & wine of Argentina.

3-4 days in Rosario taking it easy before heading North to Iguazu Falls, gonna be a loooong day!

Friday, February 03, 2006

Uruguay, don´t tell them that your Australian

About my 20th stamp in my passport but only my first this trip that isn´t either Argentinian or Chilean. I was most impressed by the immigration process into Uruguay, I was trying to figure out why there was 2 people in Argentina on our way out checking out our passports and stamping it more then once when I asked the second person whether we had to do any more in Uruguay when we arrived to which she replied 'ya estas en Uruguay (you´re already in Uruguay)'. Board the fast boat and off we were across the Rio de Plata to Colonia de Sacramento in only 1hr.

Colonia was a beautiful town, cobblestone streets, colourful buildings, beaches along the river, lots of boats and a real friendly atmosphere. We had a real blast here just winding down after our always on the go time in Buenos Aires. Our first day we rented bicycles and checked out some old ruins and stuff in town, we then decided on an afternoon siesta (which since has sort of become a bit of a routine), before heading out to dine at the local yacht club/seafood restaurant (although we told ourselves our budget starts when we leave BA, we kind of let one more night slip in there).


Day 2 saw us hiring a scooter

(see, I actually still do have a face) and checking out some beaches. We came across this cool old buildings further north from the town. An old Coloseum (if that´s how it´s spelt)and this cool old ruin of a pier struting out from one of the beaches.

In the afternoon we thought we would take the scooter and do a little exploring when we came across another really nice beach that wasn´t on any of the tourist maps (I think that this was on purpose) where they had a cool restaurant and day beds and stuff. Very beautiful. We headed back to the hotel for our afternnon siesta before heading out for a for an awesome dinner of pizza.

Yesterday we came to Montevideo, spent the afternoon walking around the old port area where poor families rent old school run down mansions and shack up together (there's like 5 families in some of these things), we then walked around to see if we could find a cinema as we felt like grabbing a flick, but the only cinema we could find (apparently the only chain in Uruguay) shows artflick films from around the world, which is cool when you can either understand the language that the film is in (yesterday was French and Afghani) or the subtitles. So once again we returned to our hotel for our regular afternoon siesta before hitting the streets for some dinner.

Today we're heading south of the city to check out the beaches and a free rock concert that´s there tonight, should be cool! We have promised ourselves no afternoon siestas today (I hope our bodies can handle the cold turkey). Tomorrow we are off to Punta del Este which is like the big beach resort town for both Argenina & Uruguay, the weather looks like it will be on our side, so time to tan up before heading back to Argentina on our way to Brasil, hell can´t be white when we hit those beaches in Rio!

Photos from Buenos Aires

Our 2nd to last night in BA in our favourite place in Palermo Hollywood (named that because this is where the TV stations are and all the people trying their best to look good to hopefully be approached by an agent and make it big in Argi) at the Congo Bar here with our best bud, psuedo tour guide, Martin

La Boca, one of the more colourful suburbs of BA with crazy painted houses, dudes beating away on drums, La Boca Jnr. footbul fanatical fans everywhere in the middle of a dirt poor suburb, quite an experience

The replica of the Sydney Operah House club called OPERABAY, our first 'Superclub' in South America

Me in front of the Oblisque (very touristy I know), on our way out to dine. I bought this top that day for AU$15 from Zara, what a bargain!